They say eating fish can make us smarter. But how smart is it to eat a lot of PCB- or mercury-laden fish?

The news is rife with reports of high mercury levels in fish and dire warnings for women planning to breed. Lost amid these dueling studies and conflicting health requirements is a truly important question: What about sushi? Can you be healthy and still allow yourself the world's most delectable upscale treat?

Conflicting Reports:

While a certain amount of naturally-occurring mercury always showed up in fish, the 50% of American power that comes from the combustion of fossil fuels (that's coal, to you and me) has led to a sharp increase in mercury which travels from air to soil to water and finally into the biggest, bottom-feeding fish. n 2004, the FDA and EPA joined forces to recommend that women of childbearing age and young children should steer clear of Shark, Swordfish, King Mackerel and Tilefish, since they have the highest levels of mercury.

2 cans minimal mercury tuna, such as Wild Planet

2 scallions, chopped

1 stalk celery, diced

2 tablespoons pistachios, chopped

1 tablespoon capers

3 tablespoons Greek-style nonfat yogurt

3 tablespoons light mayonnaise

1 teaspoon Balsamic vinegar

dash Tabasco sauce

salt and pepper to taste

Make your next trip to the grocery store a fishing expedition. Resolve to eat less red meat this year and switch to seafood instead; excess meat consumption contributes to heart disease, while omega 3-rich fish can actually reduce the risk.

Think it's just an old fishwive's tale that fish is brain food? Recent studies have concluded that regular consumption of fish makes our brains function better. Except, of course, if you're eating too much mercury-laced tuna, which could impair your mental functioning.

A story in the Los Angeles Times brings new concern to an old issue: mercury in seafood. To most of us, it's not news that we need to monitor our intake of several types of fish and

I was lucky enough to marry a man who loves to make sushi, so I really shouldn’t complain about the fact that he inevitably buys too much fish.

Still, I’m the one who has to figure out what to do with day-old sushi grade tuna and salmon (I know, I know, life is hard.) So what can you do with six ounces of odd-sized chunks of fish?

My favorite solution is to make Bobby Flay’s fish tacos. The recipe calls for white fish, but I’ve used tuna, salmon, shrimp and even squid with consistently delicious results. And I use corn tortillas rather than flour; Whole Foods corn tortillas have a particularly pleasing corn-gritty quality. If you want to give your tacos a multiethnic twist, try napa cabbage or baby bok choy instead of the standard shredded white cabbage.

It’s a great way to salvage the sushi surplus.