When I talk about pumpkin, I am referring to what a lot of folks call winter squashes: Hubbard, kabocha, and butternut, to name a few of the most popular, as well as the orange squash we call a pumpkin and associate most readily with Halloween. You may grow any of these squashes in the garden, or you may prefer to buy them at a roadside stand, but either way, don't pass them by. Small orange pumpkins are terrific for a lot more than Thanksgiving pies.

Serves 6

One 3-pound pumpkin or Hubbarb squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1-inch cubes

2 tablespoons olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 sweet onion such as Vidalia or Walla Walla, cut into 1/2-inch-thick slices