Being on a roll may a good thing for some of us, but for a lobster, it’s just the final affront. It’s bad enough being boiled alive, but then they go and bury you in a sea of mayonnaise and serve you up on a bun.

The classic lobster roll has been a staple at fish shacks up and down the coast of Maine for decades. Mary’s Fish Camp, an upscale seafood shack in Manhattan, is famous for its lobster rolls made with Hellman’s mayonnaise and served on a toasted, buttered Pepperidge Farm hot dog bun.

Lobster roll loyalists will no doubt insist that a lobster roll without mayonnaise is unthinkable. But to me, lobster meat is a delicate, succulent extravagance; doesn’t it deserve better company than a glob of mayo and some spongy white bread?

The subject of lobster rolls came up at (where else?) dinner the other night, when we were eating out with our foodie friends Bruce and Tracy. They have their own lobster roll recipe, inspired by a Brooklyn restaurant, which uses avocado in lieu of mayo.

I especially liked the sound of this because, aside from the fact that I love avocados, it’s a perfect example of how to heed Dr. Andrew Weil’s advice to avoid the bad fat and get the good fat in.

And pairing avocados with lobster is nothing new; my copy of James Beard’s New Fish Cookery, originally published in 1954 (is there a word with a shorter shelf life than “new”?) includes a recipe for a fancy lobster salad called Coupe d’Avocado a la Ritz.

We all agreed that using avocado instead of mayo was a great innovation, but alas, the consensus ended there and a bread fight broke out between Matt, Bruce and Tracy (I, for once, had no opinion).

Bruce believes that lobster flesh is best served on a ciabatta; Tracy swears by a sourdough baguette. Matt objects to the very notion of a lobster roll served on anything crusty, and insists that Whole Foods organic wheat hot dog buns are the only way to go.

I am therefore providing you with the Bruce/Tracy lobster roll recipe, but I leave the choice of bread to your discretion. We used the Matt-mandated Whole Foods hot dog buns and they worked admirably, but if you’d rather have crusty bread, who am I to judge?

For the sake of simplicity and those who don’t enjoy cooking their own crustaceans, I used fully cooked, frozen lobster from Cozy Harbor of Maine, available at Whole Foods. It’s about $19 for a 7-ounce tub, and while nothing is as good as fresh, it made for a fast, easy, and tasty lobster roll.

The BT Lobster Roll:

(serves 4, or 2 piggy people who shall remain nameless)

4 hot dog buns, or the bread of your choice

1 large avocado, or 2 small, fully ripened and mashed

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 small red onion, finely chopped

dash (or several) of Tabasco

salt & pepper to taste

1/2 pound or so of cooked fresh lobster, or frozen cooked lobster meat fully thawed

Lightly toast the hot dog buns, if you like (some people insist on buttering the bread, too).

In a medium-sized mixing bowl, combine the avocado, lemon juice, red onion and Tabasco sauce. Add the lobster meat and mix gently. Serve on hot dog buns, and enjoy that good fat!