By Jessica Ridenour 

If we’re to believe what the advertising industry tells us, there’s no better way to express love and devotion than by adorning our valentines with some shiny new bling. But by now, we’ve all seen Leo in Blood Diamond [1], and we’re aware these splashy sparklers come with high cost — usually at the expense of the local communities where the gems or precious metals are mined. Fortunately, thanks to awareness campaigns and growing consumer demand, retailers are taking notice. More and more jewelers, artists and metalsmiths are creating ethically sourced eco-adornments — gilt, without the guilt, if you will.

It is almost unfathomable that the production of one gold ring leaves 20 tons of mine-waste in its wake; gold and silver mining destroys natural habitat and pollutes waterways with mercury and cyanide (used to leach metal from rock), not to mention the public health and human rights issues that are often a part of mining in developing nations. Now, thanks to groups like Ethical Metalsmiths [2], the $60 billion jewelry industry is starting to be held accountable for how it sources raw materials.

“There’s a lot of promise right now,” says artist Jennifer Horning, who, frustrated by her own inability to trace metals back to their origin, co-founded Ethical Metalsmiths, an organization committed to sourcing and labeling metals and gemstones using international standards. She’s heartened that consumers, suppliers and jewelers alike are now paying more attention to the moral concerns involved with material sourcing and are demanding a traceable supply chain.

Horning, an environmental attorney by day, is working with other organizations to establish a fair trade [2] certification process — like that of coffee — for gold and diamonds. A government and industry initiative aiming to stem the flow of conflict diamonds, called the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme [3], was established in 2003 to certify that rough diamonds are not used to fund civil war in the most volatile corners of Africa, but industry watchdogs say weaknesses in the process are undermining its effectiveness.

“[There is] no question the Kimberley Process has been effective at curbing the fueling of civil wars that are funded through diamond sales, but it’s very narrowly defined,” says Horning, explaining that the initiative only applies to areas engaged in full-scale civil war and doesn’t include provisions for small-scale ethnic violence or human rights violations and other issues of ground production. “Fair trade would be an amazing vehicle to return a greater percentage of diamond sales back to the communities that produce them.”

Canadian diamonds have emerged as a blood-free alternative to African conflict diamonds, although there is debate about the effects on the environment there as well. According to miningwatch.ca [4], diamond mines upset the fragile ecosystems of the Northwest Territories and Nunavut and disrupt the regional economies of aboriginal people living there.

Other precious gems face their own criticisms. Ruby trading, for example, is currently supporting the oppressive military regime plaguing Burma. Artisanal gemstone mining (including crystals) may be a lesser evil, but can still result in siltation and sedimentation of waterways, deforestation and health and safety issues, depending on the mine. Considering the spiritual significance of crystals to the New Age community, it would be ironic if certain stones prized for their vibrations came complete with the bad karma of a corrupt mining industry.

Better alternatives may be man-made diamonds, which are chemically and physically identical to the real deal but formed in a matter of days as opposed to millions of years. A superior choice yet is to buy vintage or repurposed, or rework an outdated piece of jewelry into something meaningful and wearable.

“There is enough gold above ground, already mined, to satisfy all demands of the jewelry industry for the next 50 years,” asserts Matt White, founder and president of Texas-based greenKarat [5]. Precious metal mining could be reduced or eliminated altogether if more people simply took their unused, broken or out-of-style pieces into the jeweler to be remade. Because precious metal is valuable and rarely wasted, most jewelry already contains some recycled matter, but only a few manufacturers use 100 percent post-consumer recycled content. “I think you will start to see consumers demanding labeling on their jewelry which will help them differentiate [between recycled metal and new metal],” speculates White.

One easy way to make sure your baubles are as karmicly-clean as possible is by asking jewelers where their materials come from and letting them know these issues are important to you. “Jewelry is very much a symbol in society, so what we wear also announces what we are,” says White. “Wearing a responsible band on your finger will declare ‘I’m in a committed relationship,’ while also saying ‘and we care about the earth.’”

Even after discovering the virtues of recycling unused jewelry, LA-based writer Jessica Ridenour still can’t part with her grandmother’s dated wedding band.

VALENTINE'S DAY GREEN GIFT GUIDE

Bestowing your beloved with conflict diamonds and dirty gold is hardly the best way to say “I love you.” Instead, why not opt for one of the mindful bedazzlers listed here? And if bling isn’t in your budget, but you’re still emotionally-attached to V-Day gift cliches, we’ve lined up a few other ethical expressions of affection.

[6]greenKarat recognizes the damage inflicted on the environment from destructive gold and diamond mining practices, which is why they only use man-made and recycled diamonds and recycled precious metals. Their myKarat program encourages consumers to recycle broken and unused jewelry for store credit. The Vinea ring ($825) is 100 percent post consumer recycled 18k white or yellow gold, available in two widths. greenkarat.com [7]

Commit to the one you love AND to responsible social and environmental values with a ring from San Francisco-based Brilliant Earth. This Platinum Seacrest ring ($1,050 without center stone; $6,500 with center stone) is certified conflict-free, hailing from Canadian mines that promote fair labor practices and environmental sustainability [7]. Five percent of Brilliant Earth’s profits benefit African communities harmed by the diamond mining industry. brilliantearth.com [8] [9]

Jeweler Kirsten Muenster strives to create “wearable landscapes” by integrating the Japanese aesthetic of wabi sabi (the observation and appreciation of the natural cycle of life) with found objects, ethically sourced stones and repurposed vintage materials. This necklace is fashioned from recycled sterling silver, druzy quartz, a vintage glass button and fossilized dinosaur bone. Due to the one-of-a-kind nature of Muenster’s designs, prices are available only upon request. kirstenmuenster.com [10]

Established jewelry designers Page Neal and Anna Bario joined forces to create Rust-Belt, a line devoted to repurposed materials and eco-conscious practices. Their Sisal Blue ($192) is a vintage enameled chain with a sterling silver clasp packaged in a repurposed glass bottle. Neal and Bario hope to educate others about the issues surrounding the jewelry industry on their blog at rust-belt.org [11].



Monique Péan uses 100 percent recycled gold and ancient fossilized ivory for her luxury Bering collection. Ten percent of her proceeds go to the Alaska Native Arts Foundation to raise awareness of Alaska native art and culture and the environmental issues they face. These Fjord Ivory Diamond Earrings are conflict-free with sustainably-harvested (ie. found) walrus ivory. Price available upon request. moniquepean.com [12]




The Palma Collection is artisan-crafted from nontoxic, sustainable “vegetable ivory,” which comes from the nut of a rare South American palm, harvested only after it naturally falls from the tree. This Hosono ($36) necklace features vibrant vegetable dyed tagua nut slices strung on a faux suede cotton strap. palmacollection.com [13]





Gwendolyn Davis is “interested in fashion as a vehicle for a more ethical world.” Her Verde Rocks line is a collection of “nouveau vintage” bracelets, necklaces and other goodies created from recycled and organic [13] materials. The Glass Nugget Cuff ($89) is vintage brass adorned with a mosaic of recycled glass pieces. gwen-davis.com [14]



Much of Virginia-based Moonrise Jewelry’s wares are handmade by local artists using fairly traded, ethically sourced gemstones or renewable, recycled or reclaimed materials. These Tupelo Earrings ($68) are fair trade citrine and 24K gold vermeil. moonrisejewelry.com [15]




With “water wars” on the not-so-distant horizon, eco designer Linda Loudermilk thinks it’s about time people start paying attention. Her Water is a Human Right collection donates a generous portion of purchase proceeds to the YEW Foundation to support organizations with clean water initiatives. She’s constructed this faucet necklace ($79) from reclaimed silver in hopes of raising money and awareness. lindaloudermilk.com [16]




Tarma Designs offer an alternative to gold and silver mining with their Active Collection, featuring artistic expressions of outdoor activities forged in recycled stainless steel. This Spiral Pendant ($25) was inspired by an Anasazi petroglyph signifying water. tarmadesigns.com [17]



Enamore’s Saucy lingerie collection is produced in the UK from the finest organic hemp, soy, cotton, silk and hand-selected vintage fabrics. Say hello to sexy and goodbye to unsustainable. enamore.co.uk [18]










Recently launched, Urban Fox’s handmade, eco-friendly undie sets are soft, silky and flirtatious. There won’t be any problem coming-hither with these garter belts. urbanfoxeco.com [19]





Seattle’s Theo Chocolate pioneered the organic chocolate movement in 1994, and they’ve been raising the bar (fair-trade cacao, of course) ever since. Their award-winning “single-origin” bars showcase the terroir of cacao-growing regions like Madagascar and Ghana while the aphrodisiac truffle line features herbs and spices to put you in the mood for love. theochocolate.com [20]
[21]
We tried CocoaVino, and believe us when we say: so should you. Feed your lover some of this NYC-based duo’s regional, sustainable and organic artisanal chocolates and truffles -— like the olive oil bonbons with hazelnut and sea salt — and revel in the good vibes. cocoavino.com [22]

[23]
At Grocer’s Daughter, Mimi and co. use organic cream, locally- grown organic fruit, homegrown herbs, high quality nuts and seeds and Rainforest Alliance-certified premium cacao to concoct confections that are heaven on earth (or, more specifically, Michigan). grocersdaughter.com [24]




Organic Bouquet The Internet’s first eco-florist and certainly the widest selection of made-to-order organic bouquets shipping nationally. We’re digging on the Calla Lillies. organicstyle.com [25]






California Organic Flowers Each morning they rise early to pick your flowers from their farm in Chico. Then they carefully pack the certified organic bouquets and deliver next day anywhere in the continental USA. Californiaorganicflowers.com [26]