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The Beauty of Natural Pressed Powder
Posted by Aimee Valentine on November 16, 2009 - 11:06pm.

First, a disclaimer: I’ve spent years discouraging women from using powder on their faces, and I’ve taken a good bit of flack about it from those women who feel incomplete without it.

My point? It is no longer the 18th century, ladies. We don’t need to be surrounded by a dust cloud of powder to absorb our bodily and facial oils—we bathe! (The aristocrats who inspired over-powdering were the same folks who covered themselves in stick-on moles to cover up pockmarks acquired from sexually transmitted diseases... and I seriously doubt stick on moles are coming back any time soon.)

Furthermore, while a powdered face may indeed add a polished finish when you’re wearing a ball gown, it does NOT belong on your face when you’re wearing yoga pants, a jogging suit or jeans and sneakers. It is unacceptable to powder our three dimensional faces into a two dimensional plane. It looks dry, fake and completely cartoonish. While you’re at it, why don’t you shave off your eyebrows and paint them back on?

Let your skin breathe. Let your face glow.

That said, I am going to recommend three brands of natural and healthy pressed powder. Why? Because there are some worthy new and natural brands out there, and because a good powder can make you look ethereal, softening your features by refracting a hazy angelic light. And there's nothin' wrong with looking angelic.

One of the main reasons I’ve steered my clients from powder is because so many popular formulas are chock full of gross stuff that ends up settling in fine lines and wrinkles, not to mention clogging pores with extended use. If you’re going to wear powder, it should actually improve your skin.

My meters for great face powder include: flexibility, finish, and fine line-proofness.

1. For flexibility, you want a pressed powder.
Lots of mineral makeup lines have clean loose powders, but loose powder is a one-time sort of thing, used to “set” your makeup. Women who use powder throughout the day (because they’re frequently oily, or because they’re intent on maintaining a polished look) need to be able to carry the powder in their purses.

2. For finish, you want powder that rests lightly upon the skin. You don’t want the powder to be so fine that it enters the skin. Look for non “nano-particle” lines. Nano particles are often present in makeup lines that require you to buff powder into your skin, rather than letting it rest above the skin, using dimethicone (a natural silicone). Steer clear of bismuth oxychloride, while you’re at it. This popular mineral makeup ingredient is an irritant for many women’s skin, causing itchiness and, in some cases, cystic acne.

3. For fine line-proofness, you want a silky powder. You don’t want your face to look ashy, sparkly, chalky or dry. When you find a great pressed powder, you should be able to roll the puff lightly across your t-zone to take off shine, or sweep it across your entire face for a smooth finish. Look at your skin 30 minutes after you apply powder. Are your wrinkles more or less noticeable? Does your skin appear softer or does it look dry, caked, or flaky? Touch your face. Does it feel smooth and silky?

Here’s my new favorite pressed powder, by the company that makes my favorite clean liquid eyeliner: ZUZU LUXE Dual Pressed Powder & Foundation (talk about flexible!) comes in 9 shades, for every skin tone!

zuzu-powder

Use as a pressed powder for touch-ups, or as a foundation with a matte finish. Available in nine shades for any complexion. 10g compact is $21.95 each.

Ingredients: Mica, Zinc Stearate, Octyl Palmitate, Squalane (vegetable derived), Lecithin, Dimethicone, Silica, Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides, Grapeseed Extract

Here are two other great powder choices:

100-percent-powder100% Pure Peach Pigmented Healthy Glow Pressed Powder

100 percent natural pressed powder made with rice powder, fruit pigments and light reflective pearl powder to make skin appear luminous. SPF 20 protects your skin from UVA and UVB rays while antioxidants protect against environmental damage. Does not contain preservatives, artificial fragrances, synthetic chemicals or any other toxins. 

Ingredients: Rice Powder, All of the following fruit pigments: White Peach, Golden Peach, Apricot and Papaya, Vitamin E (a-tocopherol), Lavender Flower Powder, Eucalyptus Leaf Powder, Silk Powder, Fresh Oyster Pearl Powder, Vitamin A (a-palmitate), Vitamin C(ascorbic acid), Pomegranate Seed Oil, Avocado Butter, Rose Powder, White Tea Powder, Grape Seed Powder, Silica (Natural Mineral)
SUNSCREEN ACTIVE INGREDIENTS: 12% Titanium Dioxide and 6% Zinc Oxide

 

larenim-powderLarenim Mineral Airbrush Pressed Powder

Comes in many shades. The great thing about Larenim's product, as well as Zuzu's, is that they can be used as foundations as well as powders! This company uses no bismuth oxychloride, nanoparticles, or any chemical fillers or preservatives.



<em>littlevampire</em>'s picture
Seriously, it took me
by littlevampire on December 1, 2008 - 1:28pm

Seriously, it took me awhile to get used to some of the mineral powders.  Most have clay as well as bismuth, irritants as well as things that simply add to the lines I'm starting to get.

 On top of that, the idea that a finishing powder (mineral veil) is needed for a powder-based foundation is ridiculous.  Powder is used to "set" a liquid-based foundation.  Otherwise, it's simply more powder on top of powder (I modeled for Elite for many years, and while not an expert, it's a silly concept.  Powder absorbs oil/water.  So there's no need for it for powder-foundation users.)

 That said, I've been making my own. Same pigment ingredients (titanium dioxide as the white, brown iron oxide and yellow iron oxide to make beige with tapioca powder or silk powder as fillers for a smoother and lighter feel; fillers aren't a bad thing, necessarily, as they add a lighter pigmentation--you don't want to have opaque paint on your face!).  The white part (titanium dioxide) adds SPF too.  I get my cosmetic-grade pigments at WholesaleSuppliesPlus.com, with a blender and shakers from diycosmetics.com.  

 

I haven't yet mastered making a pressed powder myself. I've tried, and failed, with water, wax, and oil bases.  But I do know exactly what's going on my skin.  And have so much left over that I can adjust it during the seasons, after vacations, whatever.  If I had oily skin, I might add clay.  But I don't.  I dip my concealer brush into olive or argan oil, then mix it with the powder in the cap before applying.  

 Yes, my stuff is loose, and it's only for me, but for an investment of less than $35 (including shipping), I have enough makeup to last me a lifetime. And loose powders don't need preservatives.

 

Think about it. 


<em>athomewithkaren</em>'s picture
Where to buy?
by athomewithkaren on August 28, 2009 - 11:39am

Aimee,

If you need to color match, it's hard to buy the Zuzu product on-line - do they sell it in stores?

 Karen


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