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A Beef With Beef
Posted by Jessica Harlan on March 10, 2009 - 2:06pm.
Though not religious, for some reason the idea of giving something up for Lent resonated with my husband and I this year. It wasn't for spiritual reasons, but more for the idea of doing without -- which is a healthy exercise for anyone, Christian or not.

We've both been reading books about our food sources (On my nighstand is Animal, Vegetable, Miracle, by Barbara Kingsolver; on his is Food Matters: A Guide to Conscious Eating by Mark Bittman), and were most disturbed by both authors' descriptions of the meat industry. Thus, we decided to give up factory-raised meat for the next few weeks.

Now I know that vegetarian readers will point that meat is unhealthy, that the meat industry is damaging to our environment, and that we should try to stick to a vegetarian diet if we know what's best for us and our world. I agree with this to a certain extent. But I was also intrigued by the point that Kingsolver made in her book, which is that the human race created domesticated animals, and without the cycle of what she refers to rather euphemistically as "harvest" they would either die of starvation (in the event that they were set free in the wild) or become an overpopulous, polluting burden on society if they were housed and cared for at public expense. Kingsolver also maintains that although most people would do well to consume less meat and more vegetables, there are plenty of parts in the world where the land and conditions are not conducive to raising plant-based food. Even in the deserts of the United States, cattle or sheep grazing can help maintain the balance of native plants, and in mountainous regions, like the Southwestern Virginia region that Kingsolver calls home, managed grazing is often a better option than trying to till and plant crops in the soil, which can cause erosion and waste electricity.

She also points out that those who condemn killing animals for food usually ignore the many creatures who die (and without purpose or cause) from the raising of vegetal foods, i.e. the animals that die from exposure to pesticides or from loss of habitat or at the hands of plows or combines or other farming machinery. As she pointed out, an estimated 67 million birds die annually from pesticide exposure.

Kingsolver gave up meat from Confined Animal Feeding Operations (CAFOs) more than 10 years ago, only eating pasture-raised meat from animals that she could be sure led a relatively peaceful, comfortable life. Surely I could do the same for a few weeks?

This all leads me to my quandary about where to source responsibly raised meat. I find that the only sources for grass-fed, responsibly raised meat is our local Whole Foods store or some of our farmers' markets... that is, if you get there early enough. I got excited when I heard that our local food co-op, Sevananada Natura Foods Market, might start selling meat. It always bugged me a little that the co-op didn't sell any meat products, especially since the co-op I left behind in Brooklyn was a great source for high-quality, environmentally- and ethically-conscious meat and seafood products. But evidently the news that the introduction of meat to the assortment was being considered, raised such a ruckus that the issue is being tabled for awhile.

I completely respect vegetarians and vegans, and their desire not to eat animal products -- all of my siblings and many of my dearest friends are vegetarians, and my husband was one for many years. But I also believe that it's important to tackle the problems of the CAFOs and their inhumane treatment of animals. If stores like Sevananda begin carrying grass-fed beef, chicken that is truly free-range (and not just given a tantalizing glimpse to the outdoors from their overcrowded, filthy coop), and pork from pigs that were allowed to forage and eat fresh, nourishing food, then the farmers who are doing the right thing are given validation for their efforts and a source for their goods. As availability grows, so will demand, and more farmers will see the viability and profitability of raising grass-fed livestock.

I'm guessing that my own personal crusade will need to extend long past April 12th, and hopefully things will get easier as I find better sources for non-CAFO meat (hopefully the CSA I plan to join will help with that). And I'm just fine with becoming a responsible omnivore.

Image courtesy JelleS.

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